Just like we and everything around us, cities evolve, and Halifax is no exception. Nova Scotia’s capital is undergoing big changes, and it’s hard not to sense the excitement.
I was fortunate to visit Halifax for the first time in 2017 and fell in love with its vibrant yet laid-back vibe. As a then-university student, my culinary concerns were with the famed Pizza Corner, King of Donair, and Nova Scotia’s best-budget beer — Oland Export Ale.
Seven years later, however, my palate would become slightly more refined, and empty parking lots adjacent to the Halifax Wharf would transform into the Queens Marque district, a sprawling complex of offices, residential suites, shops, restaurants, and an exceptional hotel that served as the home base for our journey.
I checked into the Muir and immediately opened the curtains to gaze into the harbour. Emblazoned on the side of a wall in the district and its centrepiece, Mystic, were the words “rise again.”
Fittingly, the lyrics of Stan Rogers’ Mary Ellen Carter began to echo in my head:
“Rise again, rise again!
Let her name not be lost to the knowledge of men
Those who loved her best and were with her ’til the end
Will make the Mary Ellen Carter rise again!”
Allison Stephen/Daily Hive
Part of the district’s bold design, these words felt like a nod to Nova Scotia’s Maritime culture, its history of economic turmoil and ongoing transformation. Designed by MacKay-Lyons Sweetapple Architects and developed by The Armour Group Limited, Queen’s Marque connects Halifax to its rich history while embracing its future.
The development opens 70% of the site to public spaces, including the city’s first significant gathering spot along the harbour. Multiple passages through the buildings make the space feel open and welcoming, and a seaside staircase provides direct access to the water.
We were fortunate to eat and drink our way around Queens Marque. Drift, located in the Muir, served an elevated selection of East Coast fare, including a Jiggs dinner and an indulgent seafood tower. BKS, a speakeasy exclusive to Muir guests, delighted us with cocktail offerings corresponding with maritime fables.
Peacock Wine Bar, led by chef Moira Murray, impressed with its elegant offerings, and ToriDori, an Asian-fusion spot, delivered both taste and presentation.
We also ventured to the Annapolis Valley, one of Canada’s most underrated wine regions and home to Lightfoot & Wolfville. Thanks to the region’s unique microclimate, this organic winery produces exceptional chardonnays, rieslings, and pinot noirs.
However, the highlight of our culinary journey was the Mystic, Halifax’s newest and arguably most beautiful restaurant that embodies everything Nova Scotia has to offer. Chef Malcolm Campbell, who honed his skills in Michelin-starred kitchens worldwide, brings local ingredients to life, offering a surprising dining experience.
Allison Stephen/Daily Hive
We indulged in the Fauna tasting menu, an eight-course journey through locally sourced proteins. Each course was paired perfectly with a wine or one of Mystic’s unique and expertly crafted cocktails.
Allison Stephen/Daily Hive
Highlights included black apple crepe with cod chips and oysters, Acadian caviar with smoked egg yolk, and a beautiful ricotta ravioli with chanterelles.
Allison Stephen/Daily Hive
A kefir made from black currants served as a refreshing palate cleanser before the arrival of a flower-shaped swordfish dish and tender salt marsh lamb, which gets its slightly oceanic taste from grazing on seaside grass.
Dessert brought a show-stopping chocolate “sea urchin” with elderflower, koji caramel, and gooseberries. Petit fours to complete the meal included hazelnut chocolates, sea buckthorn, and a delightful smoked bone marrow fudge.
The entire meal was a celebration of Nova Scotia’s bounty, reimagined with a modern twist. We have no doubt this spot will quickly become a bucket-list destination for Maritime foodies.
Overall, it was a spectacular journey through what I already knew to be a special place. As the sun set on our final night in Halifax, I looked out at the gleaming tidal beacon in the harbour, feeling grateful to be back in a city that, like the Mary Ellen Carter, will rise again.
The author of this article was hosted by Mystic.