Happiness.
That’s what French chef Bruno Feldeisen says ties together the title ingredients in his latest cookbook: The Bacon, Butter, Bourbon and Chocolate Cookbook.
“[It’s about] the love of eating, as simple as that,” he told CBC’s North by Northwest host Margaret Gallagher.
Feldeisen says recipes are not just letters and numbers, but stories to remind future generations of their history.
“Any immigrant that goes somewhere else takes two things with them: an album of photos from the family and then the book of recipes because it’s such a part of your cultural identity,” he said.
It’s those immigrant stories and recipes that have helped shape his culinary expertise, he said.
Feldeisen grew up in Clermont-Ferrand, a small city in central France. He was kicked out of school and at 15, despite dreams to become an airplane pilot, found himself working in a chocolate shop.
He started making chocolate from scratch, which he said kick-started his love affair with food. From there, Feldeisen went on to dabble in baking, butchering and cooking.
He moved to the U.S. at age 23, where he learned from chefs from all over the world and expanded his culinary horizons.
“I thought I was a hot shot when I came to the U.S.,” he said. “Then I worked alongside cooks from Mexico, China, Guatemala, Vietnam.
“Those people made me who I am today as a good chef.”
Now based in Vancouver, Feldeisen is a renowned chef, longtime restaurateur, consultant, host of CBC’s The Great Canadian Baking Show and, of course, author.
Here are some of the reasons why he chose the four foodstuffs that feature in the title of his latest cookbook.
Bacon
Bacon is certainly a popular food, but it can be costly.
Feldeisen advises people to spring for high quality bacon, but use less of it.
“You need that salt one way or another, and if it’s crispy, a bit fatty and salty, why not, you know?”
The most important thing about bacon? The fat, Feldeisen said.
He uses it to make soup, sauté fish — all kinds of things, he said.
“Save that fat. Please do not dump it. … Put it in the freezer until you need it. That fat is good for everything.”
Butter
While he often opts for olive or avocado oil, Feldeisen said butter is “fundamental” in French cooking.
Similarly, ghee is an important part of Indian cuisine.
And while he loves vegan food, he said there’s something about butter that other ingredients just cannot mimic.
“Butter has its ability to carry flavours … like no other fat,” he said.
Bourbon
Feldeisen’s love of bourbon began when he was working in Mississippi.
He said he was given bourbon on the regular, and had the opportunity to try several varieties.
“When you try them at the right temperature, this is interesting.”
He said bourbon brings joy to a recipe — not because of the alcohol, but because it makes a dish “fancy,” even if it’s not an expensive kind.
“Anything you cook for that matter, put a little bourbon. Just the fact that you say you use bourbon, in people’s eyes you look like an expert.”
Chocolate
All of the ingredients in the title of Feldeisen’s book are comfort foods, but one in particular stands out.
Chocolate, he says, is a way to escape sadness.
“There are therapeutic things about chocolate for broken hearts,” and can “calm the mind,” he said.
Feldeisen said his new cookbook aims to tear them away from their screens and bring them together with loved ones in the kitchen for a couple of hours.
That said, there’s wiggle room for at-home chefs to put their own twist on his creations.
“I say, you know, don’t follow to the letter. At the end it is going to be very tasty, I’m sure.
“I think food is a good medium to create community, to create moments together. So don’t be intimidated by any recipe book … just have fun. Make mistake. Making mistake is good.”